Home in Rome

Kim

We took a bit of a vacation from our… well, vacation, this week with a five day trip to Naples. It’s funny that we’ve been in Rome long enough to feel like it was a real getaway and upon our return for Harrison to say, “It’s good to be back home in Rome.” This is the advantage of being in a place longer than a few days and of staying in a real home rather than a hotel–it feels like home now, and we are all sad to be leaving in just two days. How has a month gone by so quickly?

My first impression of Naples was dirty and chaotic, but I will admit, it grew on me. After our train ride from Rome, we had a walking tour of the old city. Coming from Rome, it seemed somehow lesser, which is totally unfair because very few cities –maybe Jerusalem and Athens?– can compare from a historical standpoint, but Naples was full of surprises. Our guide, Chiara, told us the people there were both religious and superstitious at the same time. We were fortunate in our timing, just missing the “Miracle of San Gennaro”. A vial containing the dried blood of the fourth-century martyr is put on public display in the cathedral, and three times a year the blood liquifies, thus the miracle. So, even though we missed the actual day this happens, September 19, the vial of liquid blood was still on display the following week, so we got to see it. The priest stands in the front of the cathedral, people line up, and he turns the liquid blood in its vial for each believer to see individually. Not being Catholic myself, I found this disturbing initially, but the more I watched, the more fascinated I became. If the blood doesn’t liquify (which has only happened a few times), it is a bad omen for the city of Naples–not a good thing for a city sitting at the foot of Mt. Vesuvius, but that is another story.

We did go to Pompeii the next day. Also quite impressive. Harrison said it was his favorite historical tour we’ve done so far. Running around the massive excavation site, I think he was dreaming of a paint ball war.

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We rounded off the trip with two relaxing days in Capri and the Amalfi Coast. Those places are not to be missed, and I will go back and spend time in both Capri and Positano if possible. The problem with the new found feeling of “vacation” is it puts my sister and me in shopping mode, which we are trying to avoid given our limited packing space and the length of this trip. Did I buy lemon-themed espresso cups? Possibly. Another coffee maker? (Yes, but it’s an authentic Naples coffee maker that goes on the stove and then reverse drips–I needed it to go with my Slovak espresso maker, the one I got in Jerusalem that boils and settles on the stove, my regular coffee maker and my Nespresso machine. I’m seeing a French press in my near future.) Sandals? You just pick out the style and leather, and they make them for you right then. I do love paper, and they make the best in Amalfi! You get the point, but the actual highlight was going to the beach with Harrison and swimming out looking back toward the beautiful cliffs and thinking, “I want to remember this forever and hope Harrison does too.”

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So, we are back in Rome. My shopping has stopped, and we are about to have to try to pack up all my new treasures and lug them to Tuscany. Rome has been amazing, and my heart is breaking a bit at the thought of leaving. What a blessing to have had this time to get to know this city a bit more intimately than I had before. For Harrison to call it “home” made my heart leap a bit. He’s getting it!